Love2Chow General Tso's Tofu

Love2Chow General Tso's Chicken

Flavors and Textures

Fuchsia Dunlop's recipe in Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook offered the perfectly textured chicken, but I found that both versions of her sauce lacked brightness. After my daughter's first Veguary challenge (which we failed pretty quickly by forgetting that oyster sauce was not vegetarian -- we got better the second year), I thought it would be straightforward to substitute fried cauliflower or tofu for the fried chicken chunks. But this was not the case.

Inspired by Gobi (cauliflower) Manchurian, a beloved Indo-Chinese fusion dish, I was able to develop a highly satisfying vegan General Tso's cauliflower with a texture and flavor that rivaled the original.

Love2Chow General Tso's Cauliflower

But the tofu version eluded me. 

As an American-born Chinese, I never cared for the texture or flavor of tofu growing up. While my parents enjoyed soft, jiggly, pale tofu or soft, jiggly steamed egg custard topped with tiny dried fish, I did not. As an adult, I have grown to love ginger and enjoy green peppers, but I still do not see the charms of bitter melon. My husband, with his midwestern background, disliked tofu even more than I, despite descending from a soybean and corn farmer.

The only forms of curdled soybean I liked as a kid were the "tofu skins" 豆腐皮 (also known as yuba) and firm well-seasoned "dry tofu" 豆腐乾. After joining the Facebook group, Wok Wednesdays, cooking through the wok-guru and Chinatown activist Grace Young's remarkable cookbooks, I reconnected with my Chinese culinary roots and learned I could make dishes that surpassed those enjoyed in many restaurants. As chronicled in a prior post, this helped me achieve a new appreciation for softer forms of tofu.

I learned from a cookbook that I had won from Wok Wednesdays, Cameron Stauch's Vegetarian Viet Nam, that one reason I had not enjoyed eating/cooking tofu is that most forms of tofu need to be pressed to remove excess water and then fried or panfried before being used in a dish.  

Click here for great entry level tofu dishes for the tofu-hesitant.

Search "Wok with Me" for Wok Wednesday dishes of the month:

    From crisp noodles to savory tofu

    Mu Shu Pork with homemade Mandarin pancakes (restaurants never give you enough pancakes)

    Perfect Spring Rolls for Chinese New Year: deep-fried, air-fried or not fried

    Saucy braised tofu with mushrooms, scallion or black sesame pancakes

    Mei Chau's Malaysian-style salmon with crispy skin

    Rediscovering Tofu: It's all about texture  (including a fantastic Vietnamese tofu in fresh tomato sauce, mapo tofu, and silken tofu spinach soup)   

  

The General Tso's texture breakthrough

Omnivore's Cookbook version of General Tso's Tofu - great texture!

Mala Chilies for even Brighter Flavors

While I have long been a fan of Penzey's spices, relying on their Tien Tsin Chili Peppers for a variety of dishes, a further refinement to my General Tso's sauce involved mixing different Chinese dried chilies purchased from the Mala Market. 

Contrary to popular belief, most Szechuan dishes that are carpeted with a scary looking amount of hot chilis are not really that hot/spicy. The Tien Tsin chili and similar peppers are mild to moderate, albeit with great flavors. 

The Mala Market offers a chili pepper sampler with four different types of very freshly picked and dried chilis.  And boy does that make a different in both texture and flavor. I used 2/3 of the milder Chao Tian Jiao/facing heaven or bullet head chilies and 1/3 of the hot little Xiao Mi La chilies, combined with the other sauce ingredients for a spectacular flavor with high notes from occasional bursts of heart.

I look forward to mixing and matching the other two Chinese dried chilies in this sampler to see how that affects the flavor. Interestingly, although these chilies have a fresh harvest date, none of the seeds sprouted under the care of my excellent gardener friend Alice. In contrast, Penzey's Tien Tsin chili seeds all sprouted for a fantastic yield.  I look forward to tasting fresh Tien Tsin chilies!

Tien Tsin chili plant grown from dried Penzey's pepper seed

Refining the General Tso's Tofu Technique

Incorporating this tofu coating technique into my repertoire allowed me to perfect my General Tso's tofu, making the recipe ready to share with my kids.

Ingredients for General Tso's tofu, including ginger that I grew.

The first step is to prepare, marinate, and fry the tofu cubes. After cutting the tofu and drying the surface by wrapping in a dish towel as illustrated above, the cubes and two simple marinade ingredients are added to a reusable leftover container. 

A reusable container works just as well as a plastic bag in coating the tofu in marinade

In the meantime, the aromatics are prepped. I often save the roots cut from the scallions and plant them, for a whole season's worth of increasing large scallion leaves. Plus the flowers add a fantastic piquant flavor and edible color to dishes, as seen in my riff on Gordon Ramsay's cauliflower steak. 

Prepping aromatics, and ensuring a continuous supply of fresh scallion leaves

After mixing the sauce ingredients, the tofu cubes are drained, and then cornstarch is added to just coat the majority of the surfaces.

The tofu cubes are then either pan fried or fried in 1/2 cup of oil in a wok.  The shape of the wok allows for easy frying using much less oil.

Pan-frying can be done in either a skillet or a wok

Or the wok allows for deep-frying in just 1/2 cup of oil

If deep frying, use chop sticks to add each piece of tofu individually, swirling it through the oil to prevent it from sticking to another piece. This is a technique I learned from making shrimp tempura. 

Marinating the tofu, followed by coating in corn starch and then shallow-frying results in a crisp, slight shaggy coating that is perfect for capturing the sauce. And yields a tender tofu inside that resembles chicken in appearance and mouthfeel!

Perfectly coated tofu, ready for glazing with sauce

The tofu cubes are drained on a wire rack, and then set aside until it is time to finish the dish. This can be done several hours in advance. 

A Quick & Easy Finish to Impress

As this dish is best served hot from the pan, wait for your guests to arrive, and then finish the dish once everyone is seated at the table enjoying some appetizers. 

For this meal, I used the same wok to fry the tofu, prepare the spinach side dish, and to glaze the General Tso's tofu. Just be sure to remove the excess oil and wipe out the small bits of cornstarch so they cannot burn.

Stirfry garlic in hot oil for a few seconds to release the aromas, and then add spinach stems to the bottom followed by leaves on top. Stirfry to start the wilting process. Then add a dash of rice wine, and continue to stirfry as the liquid evaporates and the spinach is bright green and soft.

After cooking the vegetable, dry the wok.  Then heat until a newly flicked drop of water evaporates in about 1 sec. This means the pan is hot enough to take the cold oil and form a barrier to prevent sticking. 

Add the aromatics and stir-fry, releasing their fragrance.

When aromatics show the slightest browning, quickly add the sauce to prevent them from burning.

It will start to bubble and thicken quickly.

Add the fried tofu back to the pan and toss quickly to glaze.

I reduced the sugar and soy sauce in my General Tso's sauce to compensate for the inclusion of soy sauce and syrup in the tofu marinade. Nevertheless, with the extra high heat achieved by my Wolf wok burner, I noticed the sugar in the sauce was spinning out into strands of caramel as I tossed in the pan-fried tofu cubes 

Strands of caramelized sugar stretching between tofu cubes

(See posts on our kitchen renovations to achieve the perfect power and geometry for wok cooking in an American kitchen). 

This resulted in a General Tso's tofu dish that had my husband raving about how good it was. And I had finally transformed tofu into perfect glazed bites that are truly addictive. 

Love2Chow General Tso's Tofu served over plain basmati-green lentil rice with stir-fried spinach in garlic-rice wine sauce.

As I write this, I find myself going back to the refrigerator to pop a few more leftover pieces into my mouth -- and they are delicious cold, too! 

Tofu nuggets

10 oz     package of Nature's Soy extra-firm tofu, or 14-16 oz package of another brand

1            Tbs soy sauce (plus more for sauce below)

1            Tbs maple syrup or shagbark hickory syrup

3-6         Tbs cornstarch (plus more for sauce below)

Neutral flavored oil for pan-frying

Aromatics

6-10     dried red Chinese chili peppers (available at Mala Market or Penzey's)

3/4       inch knob of fresh ginger

2-3       cloves garlic

2          stalks of scallions

Sauce

2          Tbs sugar

1          Tbs red wine vinegar

1          Tbs Shaoshing rice wine or dry sherry

1 1/2    Tbs soy sauce

2          tsp cornstarch

Optional: 1-2 stalks of broccoli, florets cut into bite size pieces. Peel stalks and remove dried, tough portion at the base. Cut into pieces on a bias, rotating 1/4 turn between each cut. Or serve with any vegetable, which can be cooked in the same wok, but not combined into the dish.

1. Cut tofu block into 3/4-1 inch cubes. If using Nature's Soy, wrap cubes briefly in a clean dishcloth to wick off surface water. If using another brand, place cubes between two layers of dishclothes, sandwiched between two cutting boards. Weight the top board with 2-3 cans of tomatoes (28-oz) for 20 min. 

2. In a tupperware or take-out container with well-fitting lid, add the tofu, 1 Tbs soy sauce and 1 Tbs syrup. Close container and gently rotate to coat tofu with the liquid. Marinate while preparing the remaining ingredients, 10-15 min.

3. Cut chili's into 203 segments. Keep seeds and just use fewer chilis (or a milder variety) if you don't want it too hot. Scrape off ginger skin with a teaspoon, cut off any dried tough parts, and mince. You should have about 2 tsp. Peel and mince garlic and add to ginger. Wash and slice scallions and set aside separately. 

4. Mix sauce ingredients -- sugar, vinegars, rice wine, soy sauce, 2 tsp cornstarch -- in a small bowl.

5. Open tofu container and decant the excess fluid into the sauce bowl. Add 1-2 Tbs cornstarch to the tofu, closing lid and gently shaking to distribute in between additions, until tofu is lightly coated.

6. Pan-fry tofu and drain on a rack set over a half-sheet pan.

    a. If using a wok: heat 1/2 cup of oil at medium-high heat. Add 1/3 of the tofu, swirling into oil one at a time to keep them from gluing together. Pan-fry, flipping occasionally for 2-4 min until golden brown.

    b. If using skillet: heat 2 Tbs oil in a skillet at medium heat. Lay 1/3 to 1/2 of the tofu on the pan, leaving room in between. Fry undisturbed for 3-4 min/side until golden brown. 

Drain tofu cubes on a rack, and repeat with remaining tofu.

7. Remove excess oil from pan, retaining for future use, wiping out small crumbs from frying the tofu as necessary. Add back ~ 1 Tbs of the oil, and heat on medium heat. Toss broccoli, if using, into pan for 30-60 s. Add 2-4 Tbs of water and immediately cover with lid. Allow to steam for 2-3 min, or until a piece removed for tasting is as soft as you like it.   OR stirfry/cook another other vegetable you wish to serve with the dish, such as spinach or green beans.

Set aside, discarding excess liquid from the wok/pan.

8. Re-heat the pan on medium heat until a drop of water evaporates in ~1 sec. Add 1 Tbs oil. Add chilis, garlic and ginger and stirfry ~10 sec.

9. Increase heat to medium-high. Stir the sauce and pour around the edges of the wok. It should start bubbling and thickening rapidly. Return tofu (and broccoli if desired) to wok and toss to coat until everything is hot. Take off heat and stir in green onions. 

🐾 Note: the tofu can be marinated and shallow-fried a few hours in advance, and the spices, sauce and vegetables prepped in advance. Start with step 7 or 8 as appropriate to finish dish and serve hot with rice. 

🍃 Dish towels work much better than paper towels at removing water. They are more sustainable and absorb a lot more volume. Using reusable containers for marinating also reduces plastic bag landfill waste.

🍃 Save the very ends of the scallions including the roots. You can either stick toothpicks in and grow them in water, or plant them directly in the garden.

 Long before I discovered the secrets to making dan dan noodles, lo mein or drunken noodles, I had clipped a recipe for Spicy Szechuan Noodles from a local neighborhood newspaper. This simple, but flexible and pleasing dish has been a family favorite since 2002. The kids call it Peanut Butter Noodles and it is fantastic served simply or with optional toppings. As it tastes equally good hot or at room temperature, a big bowl of these noodles disappears rapidly on the potluck or buffet table.

As my children were growing up, there have been a few one-pot dishes that stand out as favorites -- both for flavor and ease of preparation. The first are these scrumptious noodles coated with a light, peanut butter-sesame oil sauce, using ingredients readily found in our grocery store. The recipe for Spicy Szechuan Noodles by Chef Kelly was clipped from the North Journal Star in 2002, and modified for ease of preparation and to accommodate both a child that loves and a child that feared spicy foods. 

Over the years, this dish has been a favorite with classmates and neighbors alike.  Due to its make ahead nature, it frequently graced potluck tables at school picnics and neighborhood gatherings.  Whether made as a double or triple batch, it always disappeared rapidly.

We have enjoyed this dish using a variety of noodles. It it fantastic with semolina or whole wheat spaghetti as well as dried Chinese noodles by Quon Yick Noodle in California, or fresh lo mein noodles. I have even made it using 1 and a half spaghetti squashes (roasted for 35-40 min in a 350°F convection oven). 

While the original recipe included shredded chicken and toasted cashews, I have also served it with thin strips of ham and julienned cucumber or carrots. As time went on, we found ourselves eating the saucy noodles simply with some scallions on top.  

We use bottled Szechuan sauce by Kame or Dynasty, which are carried in the Asian section of our local grocery store. However, I have included the original recipe at the bottom of this post should you wish to make your own chili sauce.

When my son became a teenager, he started making the dish when he got home from school. He noted that since he liked things extra saucy, he was deliberately sloppy with the measurements to add a bit more of everything. It was glorious to come home from a long day of work to find dinner waiting for me and my husband. Even my daughter, who has now grown to enjoy moderately spicy foods, told me that she liked my son's version better. 

So he became the Peanut Butter noodle chef. I recently realized that we have not enjoyed these noodles much since he graduated high school. Instead, we occasionally enjoyed coming home to Tortellini with Smoked Salmon in a butter-cream-dill sauce, my daughter's favorite dish. 

This week, I asked my husband to make the base noodle recipe, while I prepared toppings of shredded carrot, spicy stinky tofu and some miso-maple-glazed Chinese eggplant on the side for a vegan meal. 

Love2Chow Peanut Butter Noodles (Spicy Szechuan Noodles)   Serves 4.

Ingredients

    8-10 oz dry spaghetti or Quon Yick noodles

Sauce

    3 Tbs smooth peanut butter (Optional. See Note)

    1 Tbs soy sauce

    2 Tbs vinegar

    1 Tbs sesame oil

    2 Tbs olive oil

    1 Tbs sherry or rice wine

    1 Tbs water

    *1 Tbs Szechuan Sauce (or make your own)

    1 tsp sugar

    *2 cloves garlic, minced

    *2 scallions, chopped

    2 Tbs chopped cilantro (optional)

Optional toppings

    6 oz (w) cooked chicken or ham, shredded or sliced

    Cucumber, peeled and sliced into thin sticks

    Shredded carrot

    Wilted spinach

    Thin slices of dry tofu or spicy tofu

    Toasted sesame seeds, white or black

    Black pepper or toasted Szechuan peppercorns to taste

1. Boil water and cook noodles per package directions

2. In a large bowl, mix the sauce ingredients from peanut butter to sugar until smooth. Stir in remaining sauce ingredients.  

(If you are cooking for someone that is sensitive to spicy or strong flavors, hold off on adding the ingredients with asterisks.)

3. Drain hot noodles and immediately stir into the sauce. 

(Remove the serving for the person that dislikes spicy foods, and then stir in the asterisked ingredients).

4. You can either serve the toppings on the side, or mix them right in.

Note: If you dislike peanut butter, the rest of the sauce ingredients are also delicious without it.  The more traditional Chinese dish that this is based on uses Chinese sesame paste. You can use any combination of peanut butter, sesame paste or tahini, as long as the total is around 3-4 Tbs. Adjust thickness of sauce with water if necessary. 

🐾 Note: If you dislike peanut butter, the rest of the sauce ingredients are also delicious without it. The traditional Chinese dish that this is based on uses Chinese sesame paste instead of peanut butter. You can use any combination of peanut butter, sesame paste or tahini, although we find including some peanut butter improves the texture. Adjust sauce thickness with water, if necessary.

🐾 For potlucks, add the scallions and cilantro just before serving.

DID YOU TRY THIS RECIPE?

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If you love the taste and texture of sushi rice, sticky, vinegary and slightly salty-sweet, you will love these easy vegan maki rolls. While you are frying the sweet potato tempura, it is easy to add in stretched tempura shrimp for a pescatarian delight. Like the famed California roll, these Japanese-American adaptations have no raw fish at all, and are fun to make, serve and eat!

Shrimp tempura or portobello mushroom maki rolls with wasabi and homemade sriracha mayo.

Vegan futomaki rolls with sweet potato tempura, carrots, portabello mushrooms and sesame spinach