As avid fans of the Harry Potter books and movies, we were excited to explore the Greyfriars Kirkyard and other sights in Edinburgh that might have inspired the author J. K. Rowling as she created the wizarding world of Harry Potter. In following her footsteps, in between visits to Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Park and restaurants near the Golden Mile, we discovered more than we expected!

In 1999, we came across books-on-cassette tape for sale in a Sam's club, some with colorful, somewhat clunky drawings of a boy with glasses. Thinking this might be good for long drives to Chicago and Georgia, we asked our nearly 3 year old son to pick one. He selected a box showing the boy hanging onto the tail of a large maroon bird, so we bought Books 1 & 2 in that series. On that first long trip, he slept through most of it, but my husband and I were completely hooked!

CD covers, as the boxes of cassettes are long gone!

At London's King's Cross Rail Station

Greyfriars Kirkyard Gate on Candlemakers Row

Edinburgh Castle

Although J.K. Rowling did not move to Edinburgh or see Edinburgh Castle until after she had envisioned Hogwarts, she admits to a certain similarity "Bizarrely, I've come to live in the shadow of what could be a lot like Hogwarts, excerpt Hogwarts has a lake. (From a 2002 60 Minutes interview)."  

Esplanade in front of Edinburgh Castle

But of course, from 1460-1820 Edinburgh Castle was set on a large lake called Nor' Loch, in which alleged witches and warlocks were routinely drowned. Indeed the loch was so smelly from all the trash, sewage and bodies that Edinburgh once had the nickname of "Auld Reekie" for its clouds of coal-fueled smoke and stench. This we had learned from our Orange Edinburgh Tour our first night here. 

Click to read about our visit to Edinburgh Castle, and the Edinburgh Ghost Tour. 

Victoria St, W. Bow St. Candlemaker Row - inspirations for Diagon Alley?

George Heriot's School. 

As Vennel changes its name to Heriot Place, small round turrets of a castle-like building come into view over the wall. The George Heriot School was built in 1628 as an orphanage and school (then known as a hospital) for boys. The royal master mason William Wallace studied and drew inspiration from the gracious Renaissance-built Linlithgow Palace on the banks of a beautiful loch, with its central courtyard, multiple turrets and absence of connecting corridors. 

Note that the speculations that Hogwarts may have been based on this school, which can be seen better from Greyfriars Kirkyard, have never been confirmed by the author herself. 

View from Greyfriars Kirkyard

Although she has stated that Hogwarts is set in Scotland, J. K. Rowling denies any inspiration from Heriot's School with its students sorted into four houses. She also had not seen Edinburgh Castle before conceiving of "A huge, rambling, quite scary-looking castle, with a jumble of towers and battlements. (Interview with Scholastic in 2000)"

Greyfriars Kirkyard. 

Continuing left around the block, we headed for Greyfriars Kirkyard, the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, and the Elephant House via Forrest Road. We passed Mum's Great Comfort Food, but unfortunately, Mum puts Meadowland (a butter substitute) and shortening (laden with unhealthy trans fats) in her pie crusts. I had inquired in advance, as trans fats and palm oil are common problems with pastries, baked goods and flour tortillas. She wrote: "You would be better substituting...a mashed potato lid."

Luckily, we were on our way to a graveyard and not in the mood for eating. Staying left on the downhill side of the fork, we turned left just before Greyfriars Bobby's Bar to enter near the kirk, which was built in the early 17th century. 

Following the path passing to the left of the church building, we walked under an arched gateway in the eastern portion of the Flodden Wall (through which you can see the Heriot School), and found the plaque on the wall for William McGonagall, whose name inspired Professor Minerva McGonagall. 

We then headed parallel to the western wall along large courtyard-like enclosures to find the final resting place for Mrs. Elizabeth Moodie. The connection to Mad-Eye Moody is pretty tenuous, but it is still fun to speculate as Rowling did indicate she took inspiration from gravestones among other things for the names in the book.

There are six people with the surname Black buried within the Kirkyard. This includes the physician Joseph Black, buried in the Covenanters Prison area. These vaults can only accessed by arrangement with guides at the Church or on a City of the Dead tour. Unfortunately, we read that the marker for Charles and Francis Black had to be moved, and we did not find it (why can't people be respectful -- it is only a story, a great story, but fiction nonetheless). However, we did see some graffiti "Sirius Black" on a site with a missing plaque. 

Continuing further down the hill, we came to the Riddell plot. These include Thomas Riddell Esquire, who died at age 72, and his son by the same name, who predeceased him. Daughters Christian and Maria Jane Riddell are also at rest here. While we may never know whether this stone subconsciously influenced Rowling, it is a fact that a Chris Riddell illustrated an edition of The Tales of Beedle the Bard. 

We did not find Margaret Louisa Scrymgeour Wedderbur's grave, or that of Anne and Robert Potter on the Giles marker, but we did see some Browns.

We exited the kirkyard onto Candlemaker Row, but found that Merchant St went under George IV bridge and would not take us to the Elephant House Cafe. So we turned back south to the V-shaped point where the statue of the loyal Skye Terrier known as Greyfriars Bobby stands, then headed north on George IV Bridge. 

Elephant House Cafe, 21 George IV Bridge

Potterrow Street

The Balmoral Hotel - Suite 552. 1 Princes St. near Waverley Train Station

J.K. Rowling's Hand Prints - City Chambers courtyard - 253 High St.

Other sites for a future visit.